Applying
stains to most kinds of wood can be done with a fairly simple
technique. I would start with a fine haired brush, one that will "suck
up" alot of stain, which tends to be much thinner than paints and
polyurethanes. Then lightly brush the stain onto the surface. Keep in
mind that the harder you push your brush against the surface, the more
stain will flow out of the brush. Make sure to apply your stain
consistently to avoid variations in color. Then with an absorbent rag,
wipe off the extra stain. The longer you leave the stain on the surface,
the darker and deeper it will be.
If you are looking to stain and
polyurethane your wood, here is a tip for that. If you like the true
color of the stain combined with the color of the wood when applied and
not wiped off, you can add some stain to your poly if they are the same
base. Meaning, if they are both latex or oil based. You can now get the
staining and polyeurothaning done in one step. Brush it on evenly and
carefully to avoid little bubbles in the poly. Lastly, remember when
doing this, what you see when you're applying it, is what you get when
it's dry. Good luck!
Minwax makes a wonderful product
called Polyshades which is a mix of stain and polyurethane in one.
Great if you don't want extra steps but bad if you want a variety of
color options. If you are looking to apply stain to something vertical
like trim or a door, consider using a gel stain which is much thicker
then regular stain.
Remember
if you are staining items to be kept outside, use a spar urethane
instead of polyurethane due to its capability of withstanding the
elements.
The following is an exert from Minwax.com:
"Whether
you're planning to build or refinish furniture or bookshelves for your
room, make gift items for your family, friends or a local charity, or
take up woodworking as a profession, you'll find woodworking to be a
rewarding experience. It's a practical skill that you'll take with you
throughout life. After all, even novice woodworkers can save money by
building or refinishing their own furniture, or by doing their own
renovations - making woodworking a particularly important skill during
challenging economic times. And, whether you're a novice or a regular in
the workshop, you can succeed in creating a professional-looking
project which is both beautiful and functional by taking a common sense
approach to woodworking. An important part of this approach is
developing fundamental wood finishing skills.
Today, the secret of a
fine wood finish is no secret at all. Beautiful results can be obtained
easily if you prepare the wood surface to accept a finish,
"troubleshoot" before application to minimize problems during the
finishing process, and use high-quality wood finishing products. Always
read the label directions and cautions.
Choosing the Right WoodLook
around your home. The floor may be oak or maple; the baseboard and
window sills may be clear-finished pine, poplar or cherry. Kitchen
cabinets could be solid or laminated, from knotty pine, oak, maple, or
cherry. With so many types of wood available, it's important to learn
how to recognize and evaluate basic types of woods to recognize their
strengths and weaknesses.
How do you know what type of wood to use?
Before
making your purchase, think about how you intend to use the wood. When
choosing the actual piece of wood, check for any twists or warping. Look
for splits at the ends of the board and surface defects like knots.
Look for machine marks, insect holes, dents, and shipping scars. Will
these defects affect how you intend to use the wood? Compare the
different types of grain patterns. Try to match grain patterns in boards
that will be used next to one another, since differences will become
more pronounced once you brush on a coat of stain. Finally, once you've
made your decision, be sure to measure the wood before you buy it.
Getting Started
Before
starting almost any wood finishing project, you should have these items
on hand: heavy plastic drop cloths and newspapers, rags, brushes or
other applicators, #120 and #220 sandpaper, paper towels, cotton swabs,
mineral spirits and sealed metal containers, such as empty paint cans
(for cleaning brushes, and, with the addition of water, for disposing of
rags and waste soaked with oil finishes). Rubber gloves are recommended
for keeping your hands clean. Old clothes are recommended because they
are usually expendable and generally lint-free.
For best results and your own safety, remember to follow carefully all label directions and cautions.
Choosing the Proper ApplicatorStains
may be applied with clean rags, cheese cloth, brushes, and other
applicators. For best results when using a brush, we recommend the use
of a high quality brush. Why?
- It carries more finish, meaning fewer trips to the can
- Your work will be neater, with fewer runs and drips
- It won't leave bristles in your finish
- It won't leave "holidays" or lap marks
- It responds better to cleaning and storage
- It springs back to life the next time you reach for it
- It will last longer
What are the characteristics of a high-quality brush?
- Long, silky, flexible bristles of varying lengths
- Bristles with "flagged" or split tips
- A non-corrosive metal or plastic ferrule
- Contoured wooden handle
- Tapered, well-secured bristles
- Well-balanced feel
Use
natural bristle brushes only if working with oil-based products. They
are not recommended for use with water-based products since the water
makes the fibers swell, resulting in an uneven draw on the product. Both
polyester bristles (medium to high-quality brushes) and nylon bristles
(low to medium-quality brushes) can be used for either oil or
water-based finishes. However, nylon bristles are not recommended for
shellac or two-part epoxy finishes. Finally, disposable foam poly
brushes are best suited for applying stain to small projects and
hard-to-reach areas, like those between chair spindles, since they
provide better control. Foam poly brushes are not recommended for fine
finish work, shellac or lacquer.
Wood PreparationOne
of the most important steps in wood finishing is sanding. A thorough
sanding is often the factor that separates "acceptable" results from
"professional-looking" results. Start with a medium grade of sandpaper
(e.g. #120) and gradually work your way to a finer grade (e.g. #220).
Sand in the direction of the grain for a smooth, uniform finish and
remove all sanding dust, using a vacuum, dry paint brush or cloth,
before finishing. Look out for dried glue, especially in the joint area.
If it's not thoroughly removed by sanding, it will interfere with the
staining process. End-grains (areas where the wood has been cut against
the grain), such as the front side of a table, tend to soak up more
stain than surfaces cut with the grain. With additional sanding to
end-grain areas, you can better control the absorption of stain.
All
wood is divided into two categories: Soft and hard. It is important that
you understand which type of wood you're dealing with in order to
properly prepare it, since softwood absorbs color quickly and may take
stain unevenly. Refer to the
"Wood Species Identification Guide" for more information.
TIPS
To sand between chair spindles, wrap a strip of sandpaper around the
spindle and work it back and forth like dental floss. For bigger jobs,
use a power sander, but first practice on a spare piece of wood. To
check your work, run a sock over the sanded wood. If it snags, you'll
need to resand the area.
The "Fingernail" Test:
If you are
uncertain as to what type of wood you are working with, conduct the
"fingernail" test to determine if you have a softwood or a hard wood. If
your fingernail dents the surface, you have a soft wood, like pine.
Since softwoods tend to absorb stain unevenly, pre-treat the wood with
Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
before staining. This extra step will help you control color
penetration. Note: Although maple and alder are hardwoods, they
frequently absorb dark stains unevenly. Play it safe and pre-treat these
woods with Minwax
® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. Also, don't
forget the porous end grain; it may need an extra coat of wood
conditioner to help the wood absorb the stain evenly. A thorough sanding
will also help control color penetration.
Color
is determined by four factors: The color of the stain selected; the
nature of the wood and how porous it is; how long the stain is left on,
from a few seconds to a maximum of 15 minutes; and the extent of wiping
when removing excess stain. Choose from the many wood tone colors, using
a dealer's sample board or manufacturer's color cards. But remember:
Different species of wood absorb stain differently. Test the color on a
hidden section of the wood you are using.
You can mix Minwax
® stains together to create custom tones. It's easy to lighten any tone of
Minwax® Wood Finish™ by adding Minwax
®
Wood Finish™ Natural. Before mixing wood tones, look at the predominant
color of the wood you are matching. Is it reddish, grayish, blondish or
yellowish? Use a stain with that hue as your base and add lesser
amounts of a secondary stain until you reach the desired tint or tone.
Try not to mix more than three wood tones at a time. That way it's
easier to control and replicate the outcome. Be sure to mix enough to
complete the entire project.
You can also use stains to give
inexpensive wood expensive-looking results. But you must use wood with a
similar grain. For example, if you want to stain an inexpensive wood to
achieve a cherry appearance, you must use a wood like maple, which has a
tight-grained pattern similar to cherry. Likewise, poplar is often used
as a substitute for white oak.
Step One - Applying the Stain
For
the traditional two-step finish, you first stain the wood and then add a
clear protective finish. The two-step finishing system permits
independent control over each step - the depth of color, and the level
of protection. This system is used to obtain rich, professional- looking
finishes on small and large projects as well as on antiques. The first
step is to apply
Minwax® Wood Finish™ stain, which penetrates deep into wood fibers, the color becoming part of the wood and not just a surface film. Since Minwax
® Wood Finish™ does not raise the grain of the wood, there's no need to sand in between coats.
TIP:
They say that the best medicine is prevention. To help prevent wood
swelling and warping due to changes in temperature and moisture, finish
all exposed surfaces of the wood item with stain and finish. This
includes areas not easily visible, like the insides of cabinets and
drawers and the undersides of tables.
If you're interested in easily achieving the popular "pickled" look, consider using
Minwax Pastels®,
which provides rich, transparent color while highlighting the grain of
the wood. Work in small sections and maintain a wet edge, since pastel
stains tend to dry quickly.
Step Two - Applying the Protective Finish
The
second step in the process is to apply a hard protective finish. This
protects, preserves, and enhances the natural beauty of the wood. To
select the best finish for your project, consider: Is the project meant
for interior or exterior use? Is superior durability demanded? Is it
going to be subjected to moisture? Now review the different types of
protective finishes that are available to determine which best meets the
specific performance needs of your project.
For furniture and other wood surfaces subject to heavy use, it is preferable to use
Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane. Its slightly warm tone adds a rich appearance to the wood.
Minwax® Super Fast-Drying Polyurethane for Floors is perfect for use on hardwood floors. Minwax
® Polyurethanes give beautiful, long-lasting protection to any finished or unfinished wood. If using a brush to apply Minwax
®
Fast-Drying Polyurethane, make sure you brush in the direction of the
grain. This will ensure that you won't have cross grain strokes when
finished.
We recommend using
Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective Finish over pastel wood stains. Polycrylic
® is also convenient to use indoors due to its easy water cleanup and low-odor formula.
If
you intend to apply a clear protective finish over previously stained
wood, it is critical that you allow the stain to dry the recommended
amount of time before applying the first coat of clear finish. Applying
the protective finish before the stain has completely dried may result
in chipping, peeling, or bleeding of color.
Minwax® Wood Finish™ directions recommend you wait eight hours before applying a clear finish; for Minwax
® water-based stains wait at least 3 hours.
TIPS:
When using
Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane,
"tip-off" each section. Hold the brush at a 45-degree angle and lightly
run the bristles over the length of the finish to remove all evidence
of brush strokes and break any bubbles that may have occurred.
When
applying additional coats of a protective finish, the bottom coat must
be dry before recoating. It is also important to sand between coats to
improve coat-to-coat adhesion, and to remove all sanding dust before
recoating. Failure to follow these steps may result in adhesion
problems.
If you have product left over, wipe the can rim so that the
product doesn't dry out and so that rust doesn't form on the can. This
will also help you seal the can properly. After sealing, store cans away
from heat.
Clean brushes soiled with oil-based finishes using
mineral spirits; soap and water are all that is needed for brushes used
with water-based products.
Until
recently, wood finishing required two steps: the application of a stain
plus a clear protective finish. Today, stain-and-protective-
finish-in-one products, like
Minwax® Polyshades, are
convenient because they simplify the finishing process and cut finishing
time in half. They're ideal for use on smaller pieces, like decorative
items that don't experience high wear and tear. However, keep in mind
that you don't get the same depth of color and durable protection that
you do when using separate stain and finish products.
Safe Disposal of Rags & Waste
Please be mindful of the safe way to dispose of used rags and other
waste. Rags, steel wool and other waste soaked with oil finishes may
spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Place rags, steel wool
and waste immediately after use in a water-filled metal container.
Tightly seal and then dispose of in accordance with local regulations.
Be sure to keep the container out of reach of children.
Stain
can also be sprayed. I've never seen it in an aerosol can--then again, I
wasn't looking--but furniture factories, cabinet shops and
manufacturers of wooden musical instruments like pianos or guitars spray
their finishes. There are a couple of advantages to it: it's faster,
it's easier to clean up and, assuming you know the technique, it's
easier to get a consistent finish.
I don't have a spray rig, so I use
one of two techniques to stain woods--assuming I stain them at all;
many of my projects I just apply six coats of oil and two of wax, then
call it good...especially when I'm working with cherry, which is
notoriously difficult to evenly stain. When I work with oak I brush in
gel stain with a Purdy brush. I just dip the tip of the brush--never
more than about one-half inch of the bristles--into the stain, then
brush and brush and brush until the finish is nice and even. This really
works stain down into the open grain of the oak, giving it a really
nice "oak" appearance. If I have poplar, maple or birch, I will flood
the surface with oil-based liquid stain and keep it wet for twenty or
thirty minutes, then gently wipe off the excess stain with flannel.
Flooding doesn't mean "put the wood in a washtub and pour the stain over
it." You use a brush--brush on a lot of stain, enough that the surface
will be wet, then keep brushing on stain as areas absorb the liquid.
Another
thing that works very well to stain wood with is Rit fabric dye. Mix it
very strong and be prepared to sand because the water in the dye will
raise the grain of the wood, but you can get really nice colors out of
it.
Montes Painting 2012
www.montespainting.com
